Contrast and color are the name of the game - will RGB or Lab save the day for this image?
Although you may simply read this tutorial, your time will be better spent if you copy the original image to your hard drive, and follow the example in Photoshop. This goes for all of the examples.
The sky in this image is whiter than the Cliffs of Dover. The camera's auto-exposure software has sacrificed the detail in the stones, and the color saturation of the grass in a vain attempt to add detail to the sky. It's up to us to recognize that the sky is gone, and focus, therefore, on the important parts of this image. |
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Above is the RGB correction of this image discussed in the text. Not bad - note the relatively lackluster grass color. |
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This is the Lab correction discussed below. Note that the stones retain a more neutral color, and the grass is much greener. |
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There's nothing like doing something to learn it
more quickly. 1. Get ready, this is an interesting, but challenging example. After loading the image and starting Curvemeister, set up your color space and options as shown.
2. Most automatic programs do nothing to this image because it has no obvious color cast, and there is plenty of pure white in the sky and black in the shadows. The key to fixing this image is the recognition one simple fact: the sky is pure white. It has gone to highlight heaven, and we should busy ourselves with the rest of the image. Since the sky contains no detail at all, we may turn our attention to the stones and grass. These areas of the image are hampered by both luminance and saturation issues. To begin to address these problems, as usual we will start with the most important steps of all: setting the highlight and shadow points. This image, in common with most images, happens to have both. The darkest area of this image is the shadow at the base of the vertical stone near the left edge of the image.
Right click in the shadow under the vertical stone on the left, and select the Set Shadow menu item. Then fine tune the position of the shadow to break up any solid areas of black.
Do the same for the highlight. In this case the brightest areas of the image are specks of white on top of the flat stones on the right.
Setting the shadow and highlight has the immediate effect of opening up the image with more detail in the stone and grass. We could stop here, happy in the knowledge that we have improved this image substantially, but no, there is more to be done.
3. Go to RGB mode by clicking
on the RGB radio button: 4 Check out the RGB image curves. In particular, notice that the endpoints of the Red, Green, and Blue curves have been shifted to accommodate the white point settings you did in Lab mode.
5. Next step: neutrals. The big players in this image are the stones, which I happen to know should be neutral, and they are indeed already very close to neutral already, so I expect there will be no dramatic changes in the image. First, click on the radio button to get back into Lab
mode. We move the cursor over a likely neutral spot in the image, avoiding the greenish lichen spots, and use the right-click menu to make that point neutral. It turns out this is not much of a change, since things were very close to neutral. We are rewarded with a slightly warmer tone for the whole image.
6. The only important colored item in this image is the grass. Being the English countryside in early summer, the grass was a rich and verdant green. The grass as it looks right now it would make any self-respecting bovine turn up its nose. Our job is to make it more appetizing.
Before delving into these curves, here are a couple of observations about Lab mode.
On your own, try steepening the a and b curves, as we did with the kite image in the previous example. If you sharpen steeply enough, you will start to see magenta and other colors crawl out of the stones. Perhaps the most important requirement of color correction is to avoid impossible colors. So we will use a different tactic, manipulating the two halves of the a and b curves independently. The a curve's central cluster of three control points is designed to stop the bend in the green portion of the curve from affecting the the magenta corner. There is a similar group of control points near the center of the b curve that prevent the yellow bend from carrying over to the blue. Voila - grass so green it has to be on the other side of a fence (which this grass indeed happened to be). Keep in mind that most of the color action is happening within one grid line or less of the center of this image, so it is particularly important to pin that area down accurately. For this operation you may want to switch to the largest window size available, and show just the curve you are working on.
The two points to the upper right are there simply to prevent the rather radical "green" bend from carrying over to the upper right, magenta corner of the curve. If these points were not there, the green adjustment would have the effect of greatly increasing the overall amount of magenta in the image. Notice also that the selected point nearest the center is slightly off center. This point was in fact added when we set the neutral in step 5, and in fact that point will in fact be marked with vertical tick marks to signify this. The grass looks a bit poisonous after just the a curve adjustment above. The cure for this is to add more yellow to the mix, and in the spirit of increasing saturation, we accomplish this by steepening the yellow corner of the b curve, as shown, bending it in what happens to be a mirror image of the adjustment I made to the a curve. Look at the before and after image at the top of this page to see how the green and yellow been increased, giving more color range, and a more saturated appearance, to the grass. In RGB mode, there is very little that can be done without altering neutrals and/or the shadow and highlight. 7. Here is the final version of all three curves in Lab mode:
Nothing new here, except the bumps in the Lightness curve. The shadow and highlight are left in the same place as before. I added the midrange point, indicated by the cursor, to increase the bite of the medium gray stones. I added the point below giving even more precious contrast range to the all-important stones, rather than waste it on the shadows. Adding the midrange point took contrast away from the lighter colored top surfaces of several of the stones, so I added the point just to the right and above the midrange point. This opened up those surfaces. The final point, closest to the highlight, was added to give more contrast range to the very bright horizontal stone on the far right of the image. 8. The final RGB curves look like this:
The logic behind the RGB curve is similar to that of the Lab curve. Notice however that not much is happening in the color channels. There is only one point on each curve for a neutral point. In particular, the magenta shimmer in the stones is here to stay in RGB. Nor can we, in RGB, bump the saturation of the grass because increasing green in RGB mode will add green to the entire image, not just the green areas. Check out once again the comparison image at the top of this page. The grass is much greener on the Lab side of the color space divide.
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